Documentary

July 2025: the atmosphere of Borgo and its surroundings

A rather unusual neighbourhood of Rome in the hot summer of the Jubilee

Exchange of glances. Rome, Via Scossacavalli, 25 July 2025.

Borgo is an ancient neighbourhood of Rome located between the Prati neighbourhood and the Tiber on one side, and between the Vatican and Castel Sant’Angelo on the other. It consists of a series of parallel streets that are not called “vie” (streets) but “borghi” (hamlets), and cross streets that connect them. This network includes 15th-century noble palaces, plebeian houses, the monumental complex of S. Spirito in Sassia, the fortified passageway connecting the Vatican with Castel Sant’Angelo, and, although strictly speaking not part of it because it is already Vatican City, the adjacent St. Peter’s Square with Bernini’s colonnade. Unfortunately, it also includes Via della Conciliazione, an urban eyesore dating back to the 1930s, which, by gutting the Spina di Borgo, destroyed the miraculous Baroque balance between the majesty of the esplanade and colonnade of St. Peter’s Square and the narrow streets leading to it, eliminating the surprise effect and replacing it with a disastrous ‘bowling alley effect’ in which Michelangelo’s dome represents the central pin.

Pilgrims and caps. Rome, Borgo Pio, 29 July 2025.

The centre of the district is the pedestrian street called Borgo Pio, now crowded with restaurants, bars, ice cream parlours, various food shops and souvenir and trinket shops serving tourists and pilgrims, which have now completely replaced the old shops that crowded the neighbourhood in past centuries (but it must be said that gastronomic and other thefts from pilgrims have been a well-established tradition in the district since the Middle Ages).

The nun’s march. Rome, Vicolo d’Orfeo, 29 July 2025.

Incidentally, it is also the street where I live, which allows me, indulging my innate laziness, to find ideas, faces, objects and other things to photograph without having to do much more than take a few walks around the neighbourhood streets: especially at the end of July during the jubilee, there was no shortage of vaguely surreal aspects or the slightly dazed attitudes of people from all over the world who flocked to this area, which I photographed with profit and enjoyment.

The shots I present here are the result of these walks.

Saints, greetings and pilgrims. Rome, Via di Porta Angelica, 29 July 2025.
Sergeant Garcia goes to St. Peter’s. Rome, Via della Conciliazione, 29 July 2025.
Mickey Mouse. Rome, Borgo Pio, 30 July 2025.
Those who run and those who stop. Rome, Borgo Pio, 30 July 2025.
The pebble in the shoe. Rome, Borgo Pio, 31 July 2025.
The camp follower. Rome, Borgo Pio, 31 July 2025.
The embrace. Rome, Borgo Pio, 31 July 2025.

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Pietro Coppa

Nato e vissuto a Roma, fotografo per antica passione.

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