In November 2017 I went to the end of the Danube river, where it meets the Black Sea. There lies the small town of Sulina.
Since 2007, when Romania entered the European Union, it lies on the most eastern border. I got there with a old ferry, after a 4 hours trip on the Danube. I was coming from Tulcea, the main town of the region which is 71 km away. Once, when the Commissions of the Danube were working, Sulina had a florid economy, but now that they do not exist anymore, all the traders are gone. Sulina is now almost completely isolated.
When I got there a short and tough bearded man approached me and asked me if I need hospitality. “Christi the painter” is how he asked me to be called. He took me to his place and offered me to stay on his sofa for a few lei. He slept in a room full of his strange and desolate paintings, picturing fishes and old boats.
I spent in Sulina a couple of weeks, exploring the old Soviet town and the country around it. I saw more horses than people, animals lost in a nowhere land. An empty church inhabited only by cats. People drinking medicines. Mud and rust.